Tuesday 4 November 2008

4th Sept 2008 - Ilfracombe (Saunton Sands – Lynmouth – Lynton)

Day 3

While chatting with Katie the other night I mentioned that I loved the ocean and the beach, so she recommended me to visit Saunton Sands. A 3 miles long golden sand beach, where there seems like no end to it and you could actually walk to a part of the beach and own the beach all to yourself. It’s only about 15minutes drive away from Ilfracombe and luckily the drizzle earlier this morning has stopped although the sky is still quite dull with just a few spots of blue. The carpark costs £5 per entry. Indeed the beach is really long and at the very far end I could almost see a blurred town covered in mist or rain. The beach is pretty empty except for some early surfers, those walking their dogs and a couple of odd tourist like myself.

Normally when I think of beach, the picture that comes into mind is sun, bikinis, sandals, sun shades… but here, almost everybody is well equipped with wind breakers, jackets, hats and shoes. Those beach huts for rent does not have any umbrellas for the sun but what they have are plastic mat walls to block the wind. I too am fully geared up with my jacket, a cap and my camera before I brave the chilly winds. It has been quite some months since I step foot on a sandy beach and getting up close to the ocean. So although not going for a swim or go anywhere near the water, I am contented.

While walking, I saw a dead dolphin with quite a big hole in its head lying on the beach. My guess is that it's dead quite recently as the whole body is still well intact with the only obvious wound in the head. Its such a sad scene. Later on, while reviewing the photos I've taken on my camera, a dog suddenly rushed out from the bushes and jumped at me. He really gave me a fright but luckily he didn't jump too high up to touch my camera. He is indeed a hyper active dog and he is all geared up waiting for his master to throw him a stick and play fetch. While at the beach, I spent some time thinking and going over some issues I had in mind. One reason why I love the ocean so much, although it's a totally different temperature and sound (here I can only hear the gushing winds that masked away the lapping waves), is that I just felt so calm and relaxed looking at the ocean and to think things over. Later on, I had my packed lunch sitting at the rocks while more families with children and surfers starting to arrive.

After lunch, I head to Lynton & Lynmouth, about 45minutes away from Saunton Sands. Lynton & Lynmouth, 'where Exmoor meets the sea', also known as England's 'Little Switzerland'. This part of Exmoor is an area of incomparable beauty. Sweeping braken clad coombes (valleys) nestled between stunning heather topped hills and spectacular cliffs. Rivers and tumbling waterfalls wind their way through deeply wooded valleys to the sea, creating an outstandingly magnificent and charming countryside. I started with Lynmouth, a charming little town by the sea which was once destroyed by flood in August 1952, damaging 29 bridges, 38 cars washed out to sea, 34 people were killed and a further 420 made homeless. There's an exhibition at the Memorial Hall describing the tragic event. Lynmouth beach is a pebble stone beach, giving it another type of view and feel. Also, there's a Cliff Railway connecting Lynton and Lynmouth. After Lynmouth, I drove up hill to Lynton. I didn’t spent much time here as it’s just another town. (Yes, I prefer the water more). Hence after a short stroll, I drove back to Ilfracombe and call it a day.

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